Historical Sew Fortnightly: Pretty Pretty Princess

I made an 1891 shell pink ball gown inspired by some of Worth's early 1890s dresses, some portraits, and an antique Parisien pair of opera glasses in the same color scheme. I didn't base it on a single person though I was inspired by Consuelo Vanderbilt ex Duchess of Marlborough after reading her autobiography. I decided to enter this inter the challenge because when I was at the photo shoot two little girls asked me if I was a princess and took photos with me!

The Challenge: Pretty Pretty Princess

Fabric: pink polyester heavy satin, I'm not exactly sure if that's the best way to describe it or how much I used because I just had it in my stash and got it last year from Jomar. Cotton and duck for the bodice lining. Ivory linen for the skirt lining. Pink silk chiffon for the neckline trim.

Pattern: Truly Victorian TV490 and TV298

Year: 1891-2

Notions: Gutermann and Coats & Clark thread, silk flowers, hooks and eyes, and 6 inches of ribbon to make a train loop for my skirt

How historically accurate is it? The patterns are accurate and the design is based off of extent garments and portraits. The fabric, thread, and flowers were all synthetic unfortunately.

Hours to complete: The first day I spent 11 hours and finished all the main construction. Then I paused and did little bits on weekends until it was finished. So upwards of 15 hours I'm guessing, I'm not very fast.

First worn: June 8th for the photo shoot at Longwood Gardens

Total cost: $28.50 for the patterns, everything else came from my stash.

 

I promise I had no idea that I was mimicking this portrait!

 

 

 

 

 

A Few Photos from my Photoshoot

On the 8th three friends of mine, my fantastic photographer/mother and I drove out to Longwood Gardens for a photo shoot. I don't have to many photos ready to show, but they are gorgeous. We got some bizarre looks as we walked in with our hair and makeup all done but in modern day clothes. And I apologise to the few confused people who walked into a bathroom to find some crazy girls lacing corsets and pinning flowers into their hair! It was absolutely wonderful fun, the place was practically empty, and the weather was perfect. I'll show more pictures later, but here are two of me and the best group shot.

Here is my favorite group shot. I made all of the dresses in the last 6 months and they all suited their model perfectly! I love my friends; they are the best. I think this photo looks like the cover of a BBC drama that spans three eras!

In the Works: 1891 ball gown

I am too busy to write anything other than... the dress is coming along nicely. And all I have left to do is finish sewing on flowers and pearls, finish the petticoat, and maybe add some puff sleeves (maybe they can be detachable?).

This dress reflects the weather! Spring in blossom!

What I am trying to make... and why it's not happening!

Philadelphia Boathouse row

When you're an over ambitious high schooler who's takes part in too many extracurriculars and challenging classes, the sewing hobby and sometimes sleep are the activities that get effected.  Lately all of my free time has been divided in between traveling to and rowing on the Schuylkill river. So pretty much if I am ever not heaving water I am exhausted! 

Understandably my current project has been slightly halted. It is an early 1890s ball gown in pale pink. I'm using the truly Victorian 1892 umbrella skirt pattern and the 1892 ball gown bodice pattern.

 

The sleeves are the small evening draped ones from Jean Hunnisett's Period Costumes for Stage and Screen. I've made the the basic bodice and skirt but have yet to hem, finish, or trim either. I think I will trim it with some pink chiffon drapes, silk flowers, and some glass seed bead embroidery. Here are some inspiration images:

I think this last one looks the most like it does.

circa 1890 corset

A few weeks ago I made past pattern's 1880s-1890s corset. It was my second full length corset. I made it in white cotton coutil with white cotton lining, vintage lace, satin ribbon, and metal feather weight boning. It came together very smoothly with the only issue being that it was too big! I cut the smallest size and took it in at a few seams but with a medium tug there is no gap.

Next up is my 1891 pink ballgown!

Late Victorian Camisole

In preparation for my next project, a late Victorian corset, I've been making some of the accompanying accessories. I made a quick pair of drawers out of some white china silk I had left over from a chemise. Not ideal but it was the best light white material that I had. I stitched some vintage crocheted lace to the hems, gathered the leg about an inch and a half from the hem, and closed the back with a button. I doubt it's very accurate but it was a Sunday afternoon project so what ever.

More notably I made a short camisole to go under my non existent late Victorian and Edwardian corsets. It's made from off white linen, sewn by hand with french seams and double turn hems. The bottom hem has a channel for a ribbon to gather it. The Neckline and Armscyes are trimmed with the same crocheted lace. 

 

The camisole was inspired by a beautiful original one I saw on etsy.

 I based my embroidery pattern off of this one two. Instead of blush, I made mine white.

You can still see the crease from the embroidery hoop! The skirt pictured above is an original one in my collection. I chose the materials for the camisole so they would go together as well as possible.

Late Victorian Dressing Gown

Recently I decided to whip up a 1880s-1890s dressing gown while I was waiting for my corset materials to arrive in the mail. I wanted to make something simple that I could draft myself (and I have little to no experience in doing that). My main inspiration was this dressing gown from.

I bought a length of Vintage net lace on Etsy and found a pretty cotton material at Joanne's home decor with the slightest hint of sheen.

I made five 1/2 inch pleats on the front neck and created a faux saque back. I sewed on the lace and then bound the neckline with white satin single fold bias binding. The robe is unlined but finished with french seems and double turn hems. The sleeves are slim fitted and made from my regency long sleeve pattern, I also bias bound the armscyes. The Dressing gown is closed with a silk satin ribon.